Slaying the Dragon - Part I The Florida Circumnavigational Saltwater Paddling Trail (CT): Key Largo to North Miami On July 13th, I had a 26-mile paddle, so I launched from Key Largo around sunrise. The weather forecast was typical for this time of year in Florida, chance of rain 50%. Wind was not a factor. I chose to take the ‘inside’ route (along the eastern shore) versus the traditional ‘outside’ routing along North Key Largo and Elliot Key…it was the right decision. About my halfway point, I had to dodge multiple downpours and thunderstorms. The inside route provided me the shelter of thick mangroves to tuck my 18’ Current Design into while each storm cell passed. After one passed, I would check my weather radar app to see if I could make it to the next point, then paddle in earnest. I had to do this four times, the last storm being the worst. In the refuge of the mangroves, I turned off all my equipment and removed them from my PFD, in hopes of reducing my chances of getting struck my lightning. I wrapped my arms around the thick mangrove roots, seeking a sense of being grounded, then recited prays to all my deceased relatives…then it suddenly stopped. After that, the remaining 13 miles to Biscayne National Park was like paddling on glass. The photo below was taken as I arrived at Biscayne National Park after my 27.2 mile paddle. The following day I launched in calm conditions from Biscayne National Park for 16-mile paddle to South Miami. As I paddled through the clear waters of Biscayne Bay, the scenery was stunning. In the far distance, I could see towering skyscrapers of Miami. On these long back-to-back trips, I fuel my body constantly, but around the halfway point, my body grew sluggish, reminding me I had not only taken the previous month off, but that I paddled 27 miles the day prior. While crossing a 5-mile wide bay, the wind increased, causing 2 foot swells now coming towards me from a 2 o’clock position, I had to dig deep to keep going. Self talk “When does it get better?” Laughing out loud I shouted “When you stop!” The final day I launched early for several reasons; it was a 20-mile paddle (south Miami to North Miami) and the forecast for wind combined with the waterways lined with concrete seawalls. Weather is half the battle for a long-distance kayaker; the other half is your thoughts/mindset. I had been dreading paddling through Miami, so much, I termed it ‘slaying the dragon.’ After a beautiful sunrise launch, soon I was entering the Port of Miami. On my left were towering skyscrapers and on the right massive cruise ships. In awe, I made it through that section with no problems. After paddling through downtown Miami, as forecasted, the wind increased and the fetch, combined with the concrete seawalls made the water churn like the agitator cycle in a washing machine. I wasn’t physically tired like the day prior, but this was definately a test of perseverance. Laughing out loud, I repeated “When does it get better?” That night, while drifting off to sleep, serenaded by Miami police sirens wailing outside my hotel window, it seemed surreal what I had just accomplished during past three days. Post Script: This blog is not complete without telling you about several important people in my life during this trip, which is the true reward of paddling the CT. Roger Hammer: I was introduced to Roger through a friend who is a state park manager where I volunteer. Roger is an award winning professional naturalist, author, botanist and photographer. Without even meeting me, he was kind enough to send me one of his many books Paddling Everglades and Biscayne National Parks. I spoke with him on the phone before I left, and he gave me a few good tips about the area I was about to paddle. He was kind enough to meet me at Homestead Bayfront Park the morning I launched from there. His jokes and sense of humor had me laughing the rest of that day. Click here to learn more about my good friend Roger. Frank & Monica Woll: Recently retired owners of the Florida Bay Outfitters and two of the coolest people I’ve spent time with on the CT. Frank & Monica were the first to establish a kayak outfitter in the upper Keys, and have been business members and Regional Director volunteers for the Florida Paddling Trails Association (FPTA) since its inception in 2008. If you didn’t know, the Keys segment was one of the first completed section of the CT because of the groundwork that Frank and Monica laid. Frank and Monica opened their home for this kayaker and one benefit with hanging out with ‘the locals’ is knowing the best places to eat! So we went to Mrs. Macs Kitchen, drank cold beer and ate delicious local food! Oh, and they found six packs of Crazy Lady beer (a brewery in the Keys) I was trying to get for a good friend. Thank you Frank & Monica! Debbie Dury: Last, but by far not the least....Originally, my husband was going to shuttle me on this trip, but when Debbie offered, I was like “heck yeh, girls trip!.” Since Deb hadn’t spent any time in Key. Largo, I planned an extra day on the trip, and termed it ‘Fun Day!” I showed her around the area, we did a little shopping, but the highlight was taking her to Robbie’s. Robbies is located in Islamorada… It’s a bit of a tourist trap but it’s worth it. You pay an inexpensive entrance fee, then for an additional $5, you buy a bucket of bait (small fish/not live). Debs eyes got bigger when I purchased the bait. Then you walk out onto a dock and in the water are 3-4’ tarpons, swimming like sharks, waiting for their next easy meal. Initially, Deb was more concerned about having to handle the smelly bait. I told her to hold one of the fish over/close to the water, then BAM! One of the tarpon took her jumped up and took the bait! Her reaction was priceless! And I’m lucky we are still friends after doing that to her. Debbie was my trail angel on this trip, shuttling me from launch and landing locations. Being a trail angel is not an easy task! She had to endure watching massive thunderstorms envelope the area I was paddling in (I sent her a text to let her know I was okay), the south Florida heat, bugs-bugs-bugs, and spending every night in a different hotel (we were living like a rock band, except for the early morning launches). The last segment/paddle day was somewhat stressful for both of us. I was nervous about paddling into Miami, while she was nervous about driving there. That afternoon when I landed at Oleta River State Park, we gave each other a big hug then a high-five, each of us successfully slaying the dragon. Debbie was such a great trail angel and trip companion, the minute I saw her husband when I dropped her off at her home, I was sure to remind her husband how lucky he was to be married to her! Thank you Debbie! The trip was definitely one for the memory books…and I couldn’t have done it without you! Well, my hubby could have shuttled me, but it wouldn’t have been as much fun! NEXT: Slaying the Dragon Part II: Oleta River State Park to Jupiter (80 miles)…most of it known as the ‘concrete canyon’ (60-miles of intracoastal waterway lined with cement sea walls). Nothing like saving the most challenging for last! Remember: half the battle for a long-distance kayaker is your thoughts/mindset. In order to avoid weekend boat traffic, I've scheduled this segment for August 2-5.
The morning of my first 20-mile segment, I’m sure I will be nervous to the point of having the dry heaves (sorry if that's TMI), but what will resonate with me during this challenging segment will be the advice of my mentor, who has been by my side (actual and virtual/GPS) with each and every paddle stroke for the last 1,435 miles; You’ve done this before, just take it a day at a time. See you all on the other end of the Dragon!
4 Comments
Bob Everson
7/25/2021 01:59:08 am
Great read! Looking forward to Part Ii
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Frank Oley
7/25/2021 07:57:09 am
Dorsey, You continue to be an inspiration, but I really hate it when I have to watch you while I'm slaving away at work! LOL I was glad you made it through ok as I saw your GPS signal come to a halt and watched the radar. I loved watching you drink the appropriately named Crazy Lady bier. As always I can't wait to read about the next adventure. Keep on keeppin on!
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Karen A Scott
7/26/2021 09:31:22 am
You've got this Dorsey! So proud of your perseverance and tenacity. I think the Crazy Lady beer is appropriate. LOL
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7/26/2021 06:31:34 pm
Awsome read.. Your almost there! Wish you blue skies.
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AuthorDorsey DeMaster embraced kayaking after retiring from 38 years in aviation. She lives near Crystal River, Florida. Archives
August 2021
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