My first official CT paddle was Aug 30, 2019, Shell Mound to Cedar Key, Florida. Visiting Cedar Key had been on my 'To Visit' list, so there was even more anticipation for this trip. Cedar Key, Florida is a quaint 'Old Florida" town, rich in history, delicious seafood, and proud locals. In the late 1800's, it was a major port, primarily for the cedar logs and pencil industry. Cedar Key was originally located on Atsena Otie, a key (island) roughly a half mile away. In 1896 a major hurricane killed 31 people and destroyed the town. Atsena Otie was abandoned a few years later, with many residents relocating to the mainland, and what we know as Cedar Key today. Cedar Key is located in what is known as The Big Bend" which is a marshy coast that extends along the Gulf of Mexico from the Ochlockonee River to Tarpon Springs. At the time of my fist CT paddle, the Big Bend Saltwater Paddling Trail (which is part of the CT) terminated in Suwannee. Steve Cournoyer was working with Liz Sparks to extend the trail from Suwannee to Yankeetown. This involved paddling the trail, camping at the designated primitive sites, and capturing the essence of it with photographs. Then this information is documented in the Big Bend Saltwater Paddling Trail Guidebook for other paddlers to use. So being invited to paddle with them was not to be taken lightly and gave me a sense of participating in a National Geographic event. When I was at the CT Reunion, I kept hearing Liz's name mentioned, as paddlers aired their disappointment that she was not there. Who was this Liz? I've mentioned how this CT journey has opened new doors/experiences and has allowed me to meet some of the coolest people ever... Liz's official role was a Paddling Trails Coordinator for the Florida Department of Environmental Protection's (FL DEP), Office of Greenways and Trails (OGT). During my aviation career, two things could be observed daily; (1) dedicated government employees, many who were passionate about their role in making a difference/positive impact for others. Liz was no exception to this rule...she was passionate about extending and documenting this in the Big Bend Saltwater Trail Guidebook, which is a Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission (FWC) product, and (2) An abundance of acronyms! Before I met Liz, Steve let me borrow a book from his personal library; Waters Less Traveled: Exploring Florida's Big Bend Coast by a phenomenal writer, Doug Alderson (whom I met at the CT Reunion & had no idea who I was sitting next to). The timing of reading this book was genius on Steve's part. First, Doug's book captures and describes the essence of the paddling journey I was about to embark on. Second, Doug paddled the Big Bend with Liz, and in his book, described the woman I was about to meet. The original plan was to do a multi-day paddle. (A) Suwannee to Shell Mound (B) Shell Mound to Cedar Key (C) Cedar Key to Turtle Creek primitive camp, then (D) Turtle Creek to Yankeetown. I was teaching yoga, so I couldn't paddle with them the first leg (A), but met them with all the gear necessary for the remaining segments. This was my first exposure to the CT and the stunning wilderness area. Steve and Liz are seasoned paddlers in this remote and unspoiled area of 'Real Florida', so I knew I was in good hands. Attention to details, especially tides and wind, is key to paddling the Big Bend. The weather was perfect, with one exception, Hurricane Dorian. In Florida, the TV media suffocates you with information about hurricanes. Fortunately on Friday, Dorian's forecast posed no immediate threat to our planned trip. Low tide at Shell Mound was roughly 9:00 am, so we planned a leisurely launch around 10:00 am. Despite the scheduled later start, we were all awake near sunrise. Liz was up first and immediately began her quest for her morning coffee, just as Doug had described in his book. Steve and I were not far behind, not for coffee, but to grab a look at the morning sunrise over Cedar Key. Once we arrived at Shell Mound, there was still an outgoing tide, but by the time we unloaded the kayaks and took some photos, there was enough water to navigate around the mine field of oyster bars. As I paddled with Liz, we got to know each other better. Doug Alderson's stories described Liz as a spirited woman (he had a hard time keeping up with!) who was highly skilled paddling Florida's wild Big Bend Coast. If I were writing a book (okay, the blog counts), I would describe her as a modern day Sacagawea. My description would be similar to the History.com Sacagawea link provided; her skills included intimate knowledge of some difficult terrain....and most significant was her calming presence... Spot on! Ironically, the same link translates her name using her native Shoshone language “Sacajawea” means boat-pusher. Paddling the Big Bend is special. It's remoteness make you feel like you are the only human out there, and there is magic in that. I still have a shell from that first kayak trip. When we returned from our trip, the TV media continued to blast out updates of Dorian's path...with a map of uncertainty. That uncertainty, combined with gas stations in Cedar Key rationing gasoline (Liz traveled the furthest, from Tallahassee) we decided to call off the remainder of the trip. After Dorian passing, we would reschedule. So this was my first 'official' CT paddle. I checked off Cedar Key from my 'go visit' places. I had the privilege of finally paddling with Liz (aka Sacagawea) leaving me with a sense of "I wish I could have met her 20+ years ago." And I participated in exploring the Florida wilderness with Steve and Liz as they document an extension to the Big Bend Saltwater Paddling Trail Guidebook...which I am now immortalized within its pages. Not bad for a rookie CT'er! Next blog: The Big Bend (continued)...including how a gourmet meal turns into wilderness first aid.
10 Comments
George Hancock
5/5/2020 06:32:06 am
You are going to have so many wonderful memories from these adventures,
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Gus Bianchi
5/5/2020 07:30:20 am
Enjoyed your report on the Big Bend.
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Frank Oley
5/5/2020 09:55:26 am
Great job Dorsey, looking forward to the next chapter of your adventures!
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John Shinner
5/5/2020 10:06:19 am
Awesome first paddle. Can't wait to hear more.
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Brenda Anderson
5/5/2020 03:13:06 pm
I enjoy reading your posts, Dorsey. Great adventures ahead!
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5/5/2020 04:27:37 pm
What a grand adventure - so glad you are getting out there!
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June Shepherd
5/5/2020 05:03:52 pm
Have you rescheduled the rest of your trip yet? I remember being so glad that you were not completing your trip because of staying safe from the hurricane:)
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Marjorie Marino
5/5/2020 07:46:41 pm
Looks great
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5/5/2020 10:15:34 pm
You all have found an interesting adventures and so lucky to do so.---Far replaced by the buzzing around the Lake in Otter Creek huh.--So happy to read your blog and love keeping up with your paddling wherever.--Wishing that I could have done this long ago.---Keep those memories going.
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5/8/2020 02:04:49 pm
Great writing and account, Dorsey! I look forward to reading more of your adventures on the trail.
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AuthorDorsey DeMaster embraced kayaking after retiring from 38 years in aviation. She lives near Crystal River, Florida. Archives
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