The morning after the big CT landing celebration and an over-the-top dinner at Hog Snappers with my kayak family, a small group of us are sitting in the lobby of the Jupiter Waterfront Inn, slurping coffee and eating bagels. Still groggy from the night before, I relished the morning...sitting amongst good friends, hearing Deborah’s infectious laugh, and listening to Gus & Steve talking about the questionable maid service (unbeknownst to them, someone had short-sheeted both of their beds). Ian was enjoying his everything bagel when he looked at me and said “Get ready. Everyone is going to ask you “What’s Next?” Ian Brown was the 5th person to complete the Florida Circumnavigational Saltwater Paddling Trail (CT). When a CT Hall of Famer gives you advice, you listen. What’s Next? (September 28, 2019): The question I asked myself, after my 2nd CT trip...where FWC extracted Liz from a remote campsite in the Big Bend, after we applied wilderness first aid for her broken wrist. I just completed paddling the final 90 of the 1,515-mile CT. The homestretch took this kayaker from North Miami to Jupiter…in the sweltering August heat, because I wanted to complete the CT in two years or less. Of those 90, 60 miles were in the “concrete canyon” - the narrowest portion of the intracoastal waterway in Florida. It took 4 days, averaging 20 or more miles per day, to complete what has the reputation of being an infamous place to paddle, especially on weekends and during holidays. The Florida Paddling Trails Association website describes it like this “Given the narrow intracoastal waterway, lengthy stretches of sea walls and heavy boat traffic, this is a challenging segment and recommended for paddlers who have expertise in paddling over large and high energy wakes.” Hey, I saved the ‘best part’ for last…and I’m glad I did. It was the crescendo of the 1,515 mile journey. What’s Next? (February 9, 2020): I asked myself between each labored step, leaving Sink Creek during my first ‘muck walk.' Before I share the next 90-mile journey, I must tell you about another special Trail Angel who helped me during my final journey. Meet Brenda Anderson. Brenda is a worldly traveler and avid kayaker, whom I consider one of my best friends... and I look up to like a big sister. Wait! You’ve already met her! In several of my earliest blogs, including Six Degrees of Separation, which is the bizarre story of Brenda and I running into each other at the 2019 CT Reunion….who introduced me to Steve Cournoyer, who eventually became my CT mentor! What’s Next? (March 22, 2020): I asked my mentor after my first CT solo...in the fog. So when Brenda asked to be my trail angel for my final CT segments, it was destiny, three degrees of separation...everything coming full circle How could I say no? Like Deb Dury, my special CT Angel during the Key Largo to Miami stretch, Brenda made me feel like a movie star. Chasing me from launch to landing, and points in between. There were people actually asking Brenda what she was doing, as she walked along the rugged Intracoastal, peering through her binoculars. What could possibly be so interesting for someone to brave the August summer elements? Know that photos below cannot be accomplished without stalking someone...Or was I stalking her? Back to the trip: For the final 90-miles, I intentionally planned to launch early every morning to hedge chances of getting caught in afternoon thunderstorms. I also scheduled this trip to take place during the week (vs. the weekend) to avoid boat traffic... like what Brenda and I saw at Oleta State Park the day prior to my launch. What’s Next? (April 21, 2020): I asked myself...after finally finding a place to stay during the height of COVID. The entire state of Florida was in lock down. It was this segment (Spring Warrior to Hagens Cove) that locked in my love for salt, sea grass and silence that can only be experienced in the Big Bend. In the twilight of a steamy August morning in North Miami, Brenda helped me prepare to launch from Oleta State Park for my 18-mile day. We were able to gain access to the park before it opened, thanks to the relationship the FL Office of Greenways and Trails, as well as the Florida Paddling Trails Association, has with managers of state parks. Park Manager Charles Smith showed his support by being there when I launched. (Apologies - photos were taken in the early morning light/hard to capture). Then after a minor delay due to one rogue thunderstorm…I launched...time to slay the ‘concrete canyon’ dragon. Within one hour of my launch, I was in the midst of this infamous canyon. It was one of the oddest experiences I’ve ever had on the CT (second the ethereal paddle experience I had outside Ochlockonee Bay). Despite all the rumors and stories of this horrid place, I was experiencing something totally different… I was expecting a lively / high energy metropolis, but as my forward stroke propelled me though some of the calmest waters of my CT travels, I realized I was paddling through a community of towering condominiums…where people were still sleeping. This kayaker was paddling through a sleeping dragon. As skies cleared, the early morning sun was intense. The stillness of the air was suffocating. I don’t normally have trouble paddling in the Florida summer heat, but this was by far the hottest conditions I have ever encountered. Not having to worry about boat traffic, my focus turned towards making sure I didn’t get hyperthermia. I did everything I normally do to stay cool; drinking cold water from my drinking system and getting my clothing wet, but the latter did not help because the Intracoastal was like bath water. I tried to paddle in the shade of towering buildings and removed my spray skirt to help me cool down. Eventually, clouds moved in, making conditions...well, better than they were. What’s Next? (June 13, 2020): She asks herself...with Key West in her rear view mirror...after kayaking 110-miles and days of belly laughs with Gus, Bob & Michael. Towering condominiums were soon replaced by mansions, yachts and more mansions and yachts. This landscape was the epitome of keeping up with the Jones’. Where all this money comes from, I have no idea, and don’t really care. I like my simple home, kayak and lifestyle. After navigating safely through Port Everglades, Brenda met me at my takeout point at 1pm…with an ice Oyster City beer. Then, not long after checking into the hotel, the skies grew dark, validating my reason for getting on and off the water early. WOW! Day 1 complete...only 3 more days to go! What’s Next? (August 2020): She wondered, while taking time off to find balance, after realizing how hard she had fallen for salt. Tuesday, August 3rd: I was on the water by 6:30 am. Today’s 25-miler is the longest of my four days. More concrete canyon, but I am more confident (and relaxed) about slaying this infamous dragon. What’s Next? (December 1, 2020): The question I asked Michael Woodside in a calm canal, after we successfully launched from Anna Maria Island into 3-4’ surf, for a 64-mile trip to Placida. Fast forward: With less than 3-miles to my takeout point, the skies grew dark, really dark. The wind increased, giving me a nice push (moving average 4.0 mph - Max speed 7.0 mph)...and as the wind blew and air temperature dropped. One of my concerns about kayaking the concrete canyon was the ability to seek refuge in the event of a thunderstorm. I learned there are places to hide, they are just made of concrete. What’s Next? (December 15, 2020): “Contentment” is what I said to myself, as I watched hundreds of white pelicans fly like pearls on a string, in the setting sun, towards their evening roost...and the following morning, as I watched an unforgettable sunrise from my tent at Lulu Key. Just as I hid under a concrete dock, all hell broke loose! The torrential downpour was no match for the lighting and deafening thunder. I texted Brenda to let her know I was okay. I also sent a text to my mentor Steve Cournoyer, who was tracking my GPS and was watching this storm engulf me from the comfort of his home PC. I can’t recall his reply, but was funny and made me laugh. Then I turned off my electronics...and prayed. Below: in left and right photos - the blue dot is my location. Red dots in right photo are lighting strikes. What’s Next? (January 25, 2021): I exclaimed during our high-five, after a successful foggy Tampa Bay crossing with Michael Woodside. The storm was relentless and seemed to build and gain strength. Before the storm showed up, I was keeping pace with a makeshift boat/barge that is used to install docks. While I was able to find shelter from the storm, they were just a few hundred feet away in the middle of the narrow Intracoastal, completely exposed, with no place to hide. What’s Next? (February 12, 2021): It's what I asked Gus and Liz, as we approached Flamingo after 5-days in the Everglades, and watched a family arrive in their sail-powered Hobie. Two days earlier, this same family handed me a note to deliver to park rangers, asking for help if they did not arrive by February 14th. An hour later, and after 7-hours since launching, Big Blue and I (and the makeshift boat/barge) were underway. What’s Next? (May 20, 2021): Camille asked me, after completing 125-mile in the Panhandle, in the most ass-kicking wind any of us had ever paddled in. For me, with less than 50-miles to go, dodging thunderstorms has become part of my normal routine, but this last one was one of my scariest. From a Trail Angel perspective, there is a sense of helplessness not being able to come to the rescue of your kayaker. So when Brenda met me at the takeout point, there was a sense of relief for both of us…to say we were really glad to see each other was an understatement. What’s Next? (July 12, 2021): She asked herself looking at her radar app, while tucked deep into the Biscayne Bay mangroves, after the second storm passed. The next storm - was not recordable. That night, Brenda and I enjoyed sushi and warm sake (which went straight to my head and made my cheeks red). Giddy, we called our good friend Pam Shemet, letting her know how much we looked forward to seeing her the following day. After the call, it was important to me to thank Brenda for not only being an awesome Trail Angel, but a good friend. Our adventure, which started a mere three days ago (but felt longer than that) was about to end. What’s Next? (Wednesday, August 4, 2021): As I launched at 6:30, there was anticipation and excitement, because at the end of todays 21-miler, Delray Beach to West Palm Beach segment, not only will Brenda once again meet me at the takeout point, the rest of my kayak family was arriving, in preparation for kayaking the final 18-miles with me. It was a perfect kayak day; not too hot and thanks to a nice breeze nice at my back, my average speed was 4.7 mph (top speed 9.8 mph!). By the time I reached Lake Worth, I was no longer in the concrete canyon. The narrow intracoastal opened and the water temperature dropped 10-degrees (compared to Miami waters). This crazy lady successfully conquered the dragon! As I approached the Palm Beach skyline, I was overwhelmed with a sense of "Holy crap! This journey is about to..." then a lump formed in my throat and crocodile tears streamed down my face; It started to sink in - the end of this phenomenal 1,515 mile journey was drawing closer. Oh...the places I have paddled...the special people I have met...the journey Big Blue and I have been on...AND TWITCH! Then, filling that movie star stalker role she most excellently filled all week, there was Brenda - on the dock waiting for me at the takeout point. The Dorsey and Brenda adventure, at least this one, had come to an end. Whats Next? I was in seventh heaven, surrounded by my best friends/kayak family. That night, like kayakers do, we enjoyed food, libations, and sharing lies - I mean, telling stories - it was like we were starting the celebration a day early. Later, Brenda, Pam and I, sharing a hotel room, laughed like young gals at a pajama party, then it was lights out in preparation for the big day ahead.. What’s Next? (Thursday, August 5, 2021): The final 18-miles, West Palm Beach to Jupiter. Compared to earlier this week, I was able to sleep in! Launch time 7:30 am. This was because we were scheduled to land at Paddle the Point around 3:00pm for the highly anticipated celebration. Lori and Alex, owners of Paddle the Pointe, are two of the coolest women I have ever met. Not only do they run a very successful paddle outfitter business in Jupiter, these two are leaders and an example for others to follow. Lori and Alex’s hearts (and wallets) give back to the local community through a nonprofit organization called Chasin a Dream. For those who donated to Chasin a Dream in honor of my final 90-miles, Lori, Alex, and I, as well as the children that receive the benefits of this successful nonprofit - WE THANK YOU! We raised $615!!! With the help of Brenda and Pam, I launched from West Palm Beach on schedule. Accompanying me was Joe Webb, President of the Florida Paddling Trails Association (I am the VP). Joe was paddling his first official CT segment. We would meet up with the rest of my kayak family 8-miles later. Photos below thanks to Pam Shemet. At Bert Winters Park, we met up with Joe’s wife Karen, Brenda (no further introductions required), Gus Bianchi (CT9), Pam (my little sister from another mother/grasshopper in training) and last, but not least Steve (CT29, my CT mentor and best friend). It was at this park, that a select few stepped in some dog shit. Not the kind that had been there for a few days to mature, this was the freshly deposited kind, still steaming. While the kayakers who stepped in it were not happy, I deemed it a good omen for the rest/remaining 8-miles…which it was (we avoided a thunderstorm!) I was asking a lot of my friends to paddle with me in the heat of August in Florida. When we launched from Bert Winters, it was hot and there was no breeze, but luckily (dog shit?) an onshore breeze picked up and gave us much-needed relief. This section of the Intracoastal was a welcomed break from the concrete canyon that I paddled the east 3 days. The intracoastal was lined with undeveloped areas (versus condominiums and concrete sea walls) and I saw my first ospreys since weeks earlier in Biscayne Bay. I felt a sense of camaraderie as we paddled. After a short break at the 3-mile point, we made our way across the Loxahatchee River close to the Jupiter Inlet. Anticipating crazy boat traffic, we pre-briefed crossing the channel as a team. Our crossing was a non-event (dog shit?) ... ...and as we paddled the final 2-miles, we were greeted by Tom and Deb Dury (Trail Angels on my previous trips) standing along the bank of the intracoastal cheering us on. Then as we went under South Beach Road/Cato’s Bridge, Bridget (good friend/fellow artist) and Margo (good friend/talented writer) were cheering us on from above! Photos credits: Joe Webb. Tom & Deb Dury. As we made our way up the final mile, we were escorted by Captain Mark of Flying Lady Tours (in a classic/fully restored 27 ft Able Marine Launch)...those savvy ladies Paddle the Pointe charged with ensuring no one got in our way! If that wasn’t enough, Steven from Jupiter’s Spot was on an e-foil waving an American flag & telling everyone along the final mile who was coming. This is when I asked Steve to paddle next to me. It was this moment, paddling in the crystal clear blue water of the Florida Intracoastal waterway, where 23-months of combined physical, mental and emotional effort...that started with a simple "Will you be my mentor?" was coming to... What’s Next? (Present Moment): Today, the world is truly my oyster, and my friends - they are the pearls. The landing location is now in sight...as well as the gathering of my closest friends on the beach cheering me on. From this point, it was an out of body experience. My plans were that when I landed at Paddle the Pointe, I didn’t want this to be all about me. Ending my 1,515-mile journey in Jupiter, at the best bad-ass women-owned outfitter I know, surrounded by my closest friends, is what it was all about. It was a celebration for all of us! I wanted my mentors and best friends to land on the beach with me, but as we turned the corner to Paddle the Pointe, just as the paddle team discussed at our last rest stop…let her land first, then the we will follow. Then from the beach I heard “Come on - paddle! Bring her home!” I increased my momentum towards the beach, but I didn’t want to paddle too fast, because that would mean it was… What's Next?
Then I heard the sound of the sandy beach softly scrape the bottom of Big Blue ...the same way Florida has kissed the bottom of my kayak for the past 1,515 miles.
13 Comments
Liz Sparks
8/27/2021 11:10:30 pm
What a tremendous journey Dorsey! And such a gift you have for sharing your adventures. Can't wait to hear more at the CT reunion.
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Dorsey
8/29/2021 05:43:02 am
Liz, Thank you for being part of the journey! We're going to have a blast at the CT Reunion!
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Tim Stull
8/28/2021 12:07:36 pm
And the way it would be passed through the is to the way it was! An amazing journey and hardly the end of your adventures, I am certain. The paddlers of Florida have a new leader among them Dorsey...but then some of us have always known about who you are. What ever you choose to take on you are all in and will always provide a fine example and a beacon of leadership as bright as a lighthouse. Keep on strokin!
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Dorsey
8/29/2021 05:45:15 am
Tim,
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Brenda
8/28/2021 04:14:54 pm
Dorsey,
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Dorsey
8/29/2021 05:48:55 am
Brenda,
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Pam
8/28/2021 06:24:27 pm
You are amazing & inspirational. Can't wait for what's next!
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Dorsey
8/29/2021 05:50:40 am
Pam,
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Nanci Lutz
8/28/2021 10:52:07 pm
You are truly a one of a kind! A true leader who is talented in so many ways. Your journey has been so inspiring and your words go right to my heart. True grit. Oysters and pearls. Conquering the dragon. Lessons learned. I'm so excited you were able to complete this journey and find old friends and new friends, all who will be friends for life. Can't wait to celebrate YOU in the fall! Congratulations on this accomplishment!
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Nanci
8/29/2021 05:53:47 am
Nanci,
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Frank Oley
8/29/2021 01:50:48 pm
Dorsey I am truly in awe at your accomplishment. The satisfaction of having completed such a challenge is bittersweet. Thrilled to have finished, but sorry to see it come to an end. I can't wait to hoist a beer or 4 or 5 with you in person to properly congratulate you.
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June Shepherd
8/30/2021 08:43:55 am
What an amazing journey, and how blessed you are to have grown all those friendships along the way!
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Bill Stasiewicz
9/7/2021 01:56:23 pm
Proud to be associated with you and your crazy companions. You are impressive!
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AuthorDorsey DeMaster embraced kayaking after retiring from 38 years in aviation. She lives near Crystal River, Florida. Archives
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